History
In 1855 R. Peters of Britain documented the first use of biaxial rotation and heat. This rotational molding process was used to create metal artillery shells and other hollow vessels. The main purpose of using rotational molding was to create consistency in wall thickness and density. In 1905 in the United States F.A. Voelke used this method for the hollowing of wax objects. This led to G.S. Baker's and G.W. Perks's process of making hollow chocolate eggs in 1910. Rotational molding developed further and R.J. Powell used this process for molding plaster of Paris in the 1920. These early methods using different materials directed the advancements in the way rotational molding is used today with plastics.
Plastics were introduced to the rotational molding process in the early 1950s. One of the first applications was to manufacture doll heads. The machinery was made of an E Blue box-oven machine, inspired by a General Motors rear axle, powered by an external electric motor and heated by floor-mounted gas burners. The mold was made out of electroformed nickel-copper, and the plastic was a liquid PVC plastisol. The cooling method consisted of placing the mold into cold water. This process of rotational molding led to the creation of other plastic toys. As demand and popularity of this process increased, it was used to create other products such as road cones, marine buoys, and car armrests. This popularity led to the development of larger machinery. A new system of heating was also created, going from the original direct gas jets to the current indirect high velocity air system. In Europe during the 1960s the Engel process was developed. This allowed the creation of large hollow containers to be created in low-density polyethylene. The cooling method consisted of turning off the burners and allowing the plastic to harden while still rocking in the mold. In 1976, the Association of Rotational Moulders (ARM) was started in Chicago as a worldwide trade association. The main objective of this association is to increase awareness of the rotational molding technology and process. In the 1980s, new plastics, (polycarbonate, polyester, nylon, etc) were introduced to rotational molding. This has led to new uses for this process, such as the creation of fuel tanks and industrial moldings. The research that has been done since the 1980s at Queen University has led to the development of more precise monitoring and control of the cooling processes based on their development of the otolog system. Equipment and tooling
Rotational molding machines are made in a wide range of sizes. They normally consist of molds, an oven, a cooling chamber, and mold spindles. The spindles are mounted on a rotating axis, which provides a uniform coating of the plastic inside each mold.
Molds (or tooling) are either fabricated from welded sheet steel or cast. The fabrication method is often driven by part size and complexity; most intricate parts are likely made out of cast tooling. Molds are typically manufactured from stainless steel or aluminum. Aluminum molds are usually much thicker than an equivalent steel mold, as it is a softer metal. This thickness does not affect cycle times significantly since aluminum's thermal conductivity is many times greater than steel. Due to the need to develop a model prior to casting, cast molds tend to have additional costs associated with the manufacturing of the tooling, whereas fabricated steel or aluminum molds, particularly when used for less complex parts, are less expensive. However, some molds contain both aluminum and steel. This allows for variable thicknesses in the walls of the product. While this process is not as precise as injection molding, it does provide the designer with more options. The aluminum addition to the steel provides more heat capacity, causing the melt-flow to stay in a fluid state for a longer period. Standard setup and equipment for rotational molding
Normally all rotation molding systems have a number of parts including molds, oven, cooling chamber and mold spindles. The molds are used to create the part, and are typically made of aluminum. The quality and finish of the product is directly related to the quality of the mold being used. The oven is used to heat the part while also rotating the part to form the part desired. The cooling chamber is where the part is placed until it cools, and the spindles are mounted to rotate and provide a uniform coat of plastic inside each mold. Rotational molding machines Rock and roll machine
This is a specialized single arm machine. It rotates or rolls the mold 360 degrees in one direction and at the same time tips and rocks the mold 45 degrees above or below horizontal in the other direction. Newer machines use forced hot air to heat the mold. These machines are best for large parts that have long length-to-width ratio. Because of the smaller heating chambers, there is a saving in heating costs. Clamshell machine
This is a single arm rotational molding machine. The arm is usually supported by other arms on both ends. The clamshell machine heats and cools the mold in the same chamber. It takes up less space than equivalent shuttle and swing arm rotational molders. It is low in cost compared to the size of products made. It is available in smaller scales for schools interested in prototyping and for high quality models. More than one mold can be attached to the single arm. Vertical or up & over rotational machine
The loading and unloading area is at the front of the machine between the heating and cooling areas. These machines vary in size between small to medium compared to other rotational machines. Vertical rotational molding machines are energy efficient due to their compact heating and cooling chambers. These machines have the same ability of the horizontal carousel multi-arm machines but take up a much smaller space. Shuttle or swing arm machine
This is a single arm turret machine that moves the mold back and forth between the heating and cooling chambers. This machine moves the mold in a linear direction in and out of heating and cooling chambers. It is low in cost for the size of product produced. It is also available in smaller scale for schools and prototyping. Carousel machine
This is one of the most common machines in the industry. It can have up to 6 arms and comes in a wide range of sizes. The machine comes in two different models, fixed and independent. A fixed carousel consists of 3 fixed arms that must move together. One arm will be in the heating chamber while the other is in the cooling chamber and the other in the loading/reloading area. The fixed carousel works well when working with the same mold. The independent carousel machines are available with more arms that can move separately from the others. This allows for different size molds, with different heating and thickness needs. Production process
The rotational molding process is a high-temperature, low-pressure plastic-forming process that uses heat and biaxial rotation (i.e., rotation on two axes) to produce hollow, one-piece parts.
Critics of the process point to its long cycle timesnly one or two cycles an hour can typically occur, as opposed to other processes such as injection molding, where parts can be made in a few seconds. The process does have distinct advantages. Manufacturing large, hollow parts such as oil tanks is much easier by rotational molding than any other method. Rotational molds are significantly cheaper than other types of mold. Very little material is wasted using this process, and excess material can often be re-used, making it a very economically and environmentally viable manufacturing process.
Rotational Molding Process
The rotational molding process consists of four distinct phases:
Loading a measured quantity of polymer (usually in powder form) into the mold.
Heating the mold in an oven while it rotates, until all the polymer has melted and adhered to the mold wall. The hollow part should be rotated through two or more axes, rotating at different speeds, in order to avoid the accumulation of polymer powder. The length of time the mold spends in the oven is critical: too long and the polymer will degrade, reducing impact strength. If the mold spends too little time in the oven, the polymer melt may be incomplete. The polymer grains will not have time to fully melt and coalesce on the mold wall, resulting in large bubbles in the polymer. This has an adverse effect on the mechanical properties of the finished product.
Cooling the mold, usually by fan. This stage of the cycle can be quite lengthy. The polymer must be cooled so that it solidifies and can be handled safely by the operator. This typically takes tens of minutes. The part will shrink on cooling, coming away from the mold, and facilitating easy removal of the part. The cooling rate must be kept within a certain range. Very rapid cooling (for example, water spray) would result in cooling and shrinking at an uncontrolled rate, producing a warped part.
Removal of the part. Recent improvements
Until recently, the process was largely empirical, relying on both trial and error and the experience of the operator to judge when the part should be removed from the oven, and when it was cool enough to be removed from the mold. Technology has improved in recent years, allowing the air temperature in the mold to be monitored, removing much of the guesswork from the process.
Much of the current research is into reducing the cycle time, as well as improving part quality. The most promising area is in mold pressurization. It is well known that applying a small amount of pressure internally to the mold at the correct point in the heating phase accelerates coalescence of the polymer particles during the melting, producing a part with fewer bubbles in less time than at atmospheric pressure. This pressure delays the separation of the part from the mold wall due to shrinkage during the cooling phase, aiding cooling of the part. The main drawback to this is the danger to the operator of explosion of a pressurized part. This has prevented adoption of mold pressurization on a large scale by rotomolding manufacturers. Mold release agents
A good mold release agent (MRA) will allow the material to be removed quickly and effectively. Mold releases can reduce cycle times, defects, and browning of finished product. There are a number of mold release types available; they can be categorized as follows:
Sacrificial coatings: the coating of MRA has to be applied each time because most of the MRA comes off on the molded part when it releases from the tool. Silicones are typical MRA compounds in this category.
Semi-permanent coatings: the coating, if applied correctly, will last for a number of releases before requiring to be re-applied or touched up. This type of coating is most prevalent in today's rotational molding industry. The active chemistry involved in these coatings is typically a polysiloxane.
Permanent coatings: most usually, some form of PTFE ("Teflon") coating, which is applied to the mold by a specialist vendor. Permanent coatings avoid the need for operator application, but may become damaged by misuse.
Edon roto moulded rowing boat Materials
More than 80% of all the material used is from the polyethylene family: cross-linked polyethylene (PE), linear low density polyethylene (LLDPE), and high density polyethylene (HDPE). Other compounds are PVC plastisols, nylons, and polypropylene.
Order of materials most commonly used by industry :
Polyethylene
Polypropylene
Polyvinyl chloride
Nylon
Polycarbonate
These materials are also occasionally used (not in order of most used)::
Aluminum
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)
Acetal
Acrylic
Epoxy
Fluorocarbons
Ionomer
Polybutylene
Polyester
Polystyrene
Polyurethane
Silicone
Various foods (especially chocolate) Natural materials
Recently it has become possible to use natural materials in the molding process. Through the use of real sands and stone chip, sandstone composite can be created which is 80% natural non-processed material.
Rotational molding of plaster is used to produce hollow statuettes.
Chocolate is rotationally molded to form hollow treats. Products
Rotational Molded Flamingo
Designers can select the best material for their application, including materials that meet U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requirements. Additives for weather resistance, flame retardation, or static elimination can be incorporated. Inserts, threads, handles, minor undercuts, flat surfaces without draft angles, or fine surface detail can be part of the design. Designs can also be multi-wall, either hollow or foam filled. Products that can be manufactured using rotational molding include storage tanks, bins and refuse containers, doll parts, road cones, footballs, helmets, rowing boats and kayak hulls. Playground slides and roofs are also generally rotomolded. Design considerations Product design
There are many considerations for a designer when designing a part. Which factors are most important to a client? For instance, a part may need to be cheap and a certain color. However, if another color is cheaper, would the client be willing to change colors? Designers are responsible for considering all the limitations and benefits of using certain plastics. This may result in a new process being decided upon. Designing for rotational molding
Another consideration is in the draft angles. These are required to remove the piece from the mold. On the outside walls, a draft angle of 1 may work (assuming no rough surface or holes). On inside walls, such as the inside of a boat hull, a draft angle of 5 may be required. This is due to shrinkage and possible part warping.
Another consideration is of structural support ribs. While solid ribs may be desirable and achievable in injection molding and other processes, a hollow rib is the best solution in rotational molding. A solid rib may be achieved through inserting a finished piece in the mold but this adds cost.
Rotational molding excels at producing hollow parts. However, care must be taken when this is done. When the depth of the recess is greater than the width there may be problems with even heating and cooling. Additionally, enough room must be left between the parallel walls to allow for the melt-flow to properly move throughout the mold. Otherwise webbing may occur. A desirable parallel wall scenario would have a gap at least three times the nominal wall thickness, with five times the nominal wall thickness being optimal. Sharp corners for parallel walls must also be considered. With angles of less than 45 bridging, webbing, and voids may occur. Material limitations and considerations
Another consideration is the melt-flow of materials. Certain materials, such as nylon, will require larger radii than other materials. Additionally, the stiffness of the set material may be a factor. More structural and strengthening measures may be required when a flimsy material is used. Wall thickness
One benefit of rotational molding is the ability to experiment, particularly with wall thicknesses. Cost is entirely dependent on wall thickness, with thicker walls being costlier and more time consuming to produce. While the wall thickness can be nearly any thickness, designers must remember that the thicker the wall, the more material and time will be required, increasing costs. In some cases, the plastics may significantly degrade due to extended periods at high temperature. Also, different materials have different thermal conductivity, meaning they require different times in the heating chamber and cooling chamber. Ideally, the part will be tested to use the minimum thickness required for the application. This minimum will then be established as a nominal thickness.
For the designer, while variable thicknesses are possible, a process called stop rotation is required. This process is limited in that only one side of the mold may be thicker than the others. After the mold is rotated and all the surfaces are sufficiently coated with the melt-flow, the rotation stops and the melt-flow is allowed to pool at the bottom of the mold cavity.
Wall thickness is important for corner radii as well. Large outside radii are preferable to small radii. Large inside radii are also preferable to small inside radii. This allows for a more even flow of material and a more even wall thickness. However, it is to be noted that an outside corner is generally stronger than a inside corner. Process: advantages, limitations, and material requirements Advantages
Rotational molding offers design advantages over other molding processes. With proper design, parts assembled from several pieces can be molded as one part, eliminating high fabrication costs. The process also has inherent design strengths, such as consistent wall thickness and strong outside corners that are virtually stress free. For additional strength, reinforcing ribs can be designed into the part. Along with being designed into the part, they can be added to the mold.
The ability to add prefinished pieces to the mold alone is a large advantage. Metal threads, internal pipes and structures, and even different colored plastics can all be added to the mold prior to the addition of plastic pellets. However, care must be taken to ensure that minimal shrinkage while cooling will not damage the part. This shrinking allows for mild undercuts and negates the need for ejection mechanisms (in most pieces).
Another advantage lies in the molds themselves. Since they require less tooling, they can be manufactured and put into production much quicker than other molding processes. This is especially true for complex parts, which may require large amounts of tooling for other molding processes. Rotational molding is also the desired process for short runs and rush deliveries. The molds can be swapped quickly or different colors can be used without purging the mold. With other processes, purging may be required to swap colors.
Due to the uniform thicknesses achieved, large stretched sections are nonexistent, which makes large thin panels possible (although warping may occur). Also, there is little flow of plastic (stretching) but rather a placing of the material within the part. These thin walls also limit cost and production time.
Another cost limiting factor is the amount of material wasted in production. There are no sprues or runners (as in injection molding), no off-cuts (thermoforming), or pinch off scrap (blow molding). What material is wasted, through scrap or failed part testing, can usually be recycled. Limitations
Rotationally molded parts have to follow some restrictions that are different from other plastic processes. As it is a low pressure process, sometimes designers face hard to reach areas in the mold. Good quality powder may help overcome some situations, but usually the designers have to keep in mind that it is not possible to make some sharp threads used in injection molded goods. Some products based on polyethylene can be put in the mold before filling it with the main material. This can help to avoid holes that otherwise would appear in some areas. This could be also achieved using molds with movable sections.
Another limitation lies in the molds themselves. Unlike other processes where only the product needs to be cooled before being removed, with rotational molding the entire mold must be cooled. While water cooling processes are possible, there is still a significant down time of the mold. Additionally, this increases both financial and environmental costs. Some plastics will degrade with the long heating cycles or in the process of turning them into a powder to be melted. Material requirements
Roto-moulded traffic cones with reflective sleeve for night visibility.
Due to the nature of the process, materials selection must take into account the following:
Due to high temperatures within the mold the plastic must have a high resistance to permanent change in properties caused by heat (high thermal stability).
The melted plastic will come into contact with the oxygen inside the moldhis can potentially lead to oxidation of the melted plastic and deterioration of the material's properties. Therefore, the chosen plastic must have a sufficient amount of antioxidant molecules to prevent such degradation in its liquid state.
Because there is no pressure to push the plastic into the mold, the chosen plastic must be able to flow easily through the cavities of the mold. The parts design must also take into account the flow characteristics of the particular plastic chosen. References
^ Beall 1998, p. 6.
^ a b c Ward, Noel M. (Winter 1997). "A History of Rotational Moulding". Platiquarian Reprints. Archived from the original on 2009-12-03. http://www.webcitation.org/5lkadq2tF. Retrieved 2009-12-03. 
^ Todd, Allen & Alting 1994, p. 265266.
^ Beall 1998, p. 154.
^ a b Beall, Glenn (1998). Rotational Molding. Hanser Gardner Publications. pp. 152. ISBN 9781569902608. 
^ a b Beall 1998, p. 155.
^ a b Beall 1998, p. 18.
^ Beall 1998, pp. 6268.
^ http://machinedesign.com/article/putting-the-right-spin-on-rotational-molding-designs-0518
^ Beall 1998, p. 69.
^ Beall 1998, pp. 7577.
^ Beall 1998, p. 71.
^ a b c Beall 1998, p. 70. Bibliography
Beall, Glenn (1998), Rotational Molding, Hanser Gardner Publications, ISBN 9781569902608. 
Todd, Robert H.; Allen, Dell K.; Alting, Leo (1994), Manufacturing Processes Reference Guide, Industrial Press Inc., ISBN 0-8311-3049-0, http://books.google.com/books?id=6x1smAf_PAcC.  Further reading
Crawford, R, Throne, James L., Rotational Moulding of Plastics, William Andrew Inc. (2002). ISBN 1884207855
Crawford, R, Kearns, M, Practical Guide to Rotational Moulding, Rapra Technology Ltd. (2003). ISBN 1859573878 External links
Association of Rotational Moulders Australasia
British Plastics Federation - Rotational Moulding Overview
Animation of the rotational molding process Categories: Casting (manufacturing) | Plastics industry

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Crown molding installation can often feel like a difficult home improvement project to complete on your own. Not to worry, there are several tips you can review that will help you save time, energy and money on this DIY project. If you have the knowledge and proper tools, this can be a fairly easy home improvement venture. All you have to remember is to take your time an follow the steps outlined below.

Crown Molding Installation Tools: sponge/clean cloth, caulking gun, miter box/saw or miter saw, chalk line box/pencil, polyurethane construction adhesive, hammer/finishing nails

Before Crown Molding Installation:
Establish Plan & Review Layout: When you decide you are going to install crown molding it’s important to review the space you plan on updating. Measure the room to determine its footage and increase this footage by 10%. This will take into account  crown molding waste you may have. This will allow you to access how much crown molding you will need.

Molding Storage: Never store your molding outdoors. It’s crucial that you always store your crown molding in a dry, ventilated area with low humidity. This will prevent the molding from expanding, retracting and/or bowing. It’s a good idea to place the molding in the room you will be installing it about 48-72 hours beforehand. This will allow the crown molding to adjust to the temperature and humidity in that room.

- Surface Preparation: Clean all surfaces among the crown molding and walls where the molding will be installed with a sponge/clean cloth and make sure surface is completely dry before starting the install process.

Paint Crown Molding: Before you install the molding it should be painted, as well as your walls. This will allow a more professional and finished look. Touch-ups to the crown molding may be needed after the install, but should be minor.

During Crown Molding Installation:
-Miter Molding Corners: In order to generate a quality molding cut, you must place the molding in the miter box or power saw rail correctly. Place the molding in the box so the ceiling bedding edge lies against the bottom of the box/saw and that the wall bedding edge lies against the side of the miter box opposite of you.

Cut all of your miters and joints before you install your crown molding. It can be a good idea to measure twice, just to make sure you are accurate. Then lay out the cut molding within the room it is being installed to make sure you made the proper cuts.

Crown Molding Install: Mark the entire wall length with your chalk line box and pencil. Start installing the molding in an area that is not easily seen, so that it is easier to disguise repeat patterns. Start applying a 1/4 inch bead of construction adhesive to the backside of the crown molding you have cut and between each joint. Apply gentle pressure to the crown molding when it is positioned on the wall. Smooth excess chalk away from the wall and molding. If you choose to use finishing nails in addition to the adhesive, after the adhesive has set fill in the nails with elastomeric caulk and smooth the surface with fine sandpaper, touching up with paint.

After Crown Molding Installation:
Sit back, relax and enjoy the professional looking crown molding installation job you just completed.

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Panel molding dates back to the Georgian period of the 1700's. Georgian architecture is characterized by a sense of proportion and balance. Symmetry and adherence to the classical rules were valued as regular and desirable. Today, panel molding is used to break up large surfaces, which adds a formal feeling to most designs. It is also utilized as a border separating colors or textures. Visually enhance any room with decorative panel molding; from walls and doors to ceilings, these exquisite accents can be installed by the average do it yourself home owner.
As with any project, proper safety practices should be used at all times. That includes wearing hearing and eye protection as appropriate. If you need to use a respirator, dust mask or any other tool or equipment, always select the right one for the job.

Planning
When beginning any project, it is important to plan the layout. Establishing a plan keeps the job flowing smoothly. It is perhaps the most important step. Although installing panel molding requires that you have a good drawing that accurately shows the room and the pattern, you won't need to generate detailed blueprints. A pencil sketch on graph paper will do. Be certain that the measurements are accurate. Reference dimensions on the drawing to either the center of the room (or to a ceiling dome or ceiling medallion, etc..) or to the walls. This will depend on the dominant feature of your design. Although you may not have any interest in recreating an extravagant baroque ceiling for your own home, you can often find some great pattern ideas by studying the ceilings of historic castles and palaces. Look around your room and decide whether you will have full or split panels; single size or variable sizes, or symmetric sized panels. Panel molding is strictly a decorative element, so there are no rules to follow for the design. This is your opportunity to create a unique and individual design.
Ordering
When ordering your panel molding make sure that the pattern of the molding is compatible with the corners (if you are using corners) and that you have made adequate allowance for cutting waste. Remember to take pattern repeat into account when figuring cutting waste. I like to use a cut list for all trim work. It allows me to plan all of the joints before I start cutting. I use the same list to plan my order. Normally, panel molding is inexpensive due to its small profile. Therefore, you may want to save some work and order enough to eliminate as many joints as possible. You are also going to need adhesive, caulk, etc. to complete the installation.

Prefinishing
If you are not planning to finish (paint or faux finish) the ceiling and the molding at the same, you may want to prefinish the molding and then touch it up after installation.

Assemble Materials
Setup a work area close to the job and assemble your tools and materials. Look over the moldings to make sure they haven't been damaged either on shipping or on the job. Inventory your tools and supplies to ensure that everything you will need is there. If something is missing, stop and get it now rather than waiting until you need it, which inevitably is at the worst possible time.

Layout
Transfer your plan to the ceiling in full size. Layout the outline of the molding rather than the centerlines so the layout will be visible with the molding installed. Remember to reference patterns that surround ceiling domes or ceiling medallions, to the center of the feature they surround. Reference moldings that run parallel to walls to the wall (to minimize the effect of out of square or wavy walls).
Install
Because of their light weight no mechanical fasteners are required. Use an appropriate size bead of adhesive and temporary fasteners as necessary until the adhesive sets.

Finish Up
After the adhesive has set, remove the temporary fasteners or set below surface. Caulk the joint between the ceiling and the molding. Fill the holes made by the fasteners with non-shrink filler, sand, prime and paint.

Voila! Enjoy and relish in the glow of all the compliments you receive when others see how beautiful your room is with the simple addition of panel molding.

copyright 2005 goceilingmedallion.com

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By definition, a molding is an ornamental piece of wood, metal, or plaster, used to decorate or outline something. It can be used on the interior or exterior of a home. Moldings frame walls, ceilings, windows, and door openings. Examples of moldings used to decorate with are baseboards, crown molding, and chair rails. Today, I want to talk exclusively about crown molding as a decorative architectural choice.

Crown molding, also referred to as crown moulding, or cornice, is probably the most important architectural accent used to detail any interior space. Most interior designers today would agree that every room can be improved with the use of crown molding. Crown molding smoothes the transition from the wall to the ceiling and does a wonderful job of defining the architectural style of a room. The size and style of crown molding used may vary widely, from a simple cove in a farmhouse kitchen to a large built-up cornice in a grand entry.

The initial use of a cornice in building design is anyone's guess. By the time the ancient Greeks had gained power, rules had already been created to define the use and design of crown molding. Originally, it was used as a structural element to help support the weight of the roof. It also served to keep water away from the building, thus protecting the lower walls and the foundation. However, the use of cornice as a decorative element was not considered any less important than it's more utilitarian functions. Most of the ornamental design patterns that you see on today's crown molding originated from the ancient Greeks. Egg and dart, dentil and acanthus leaf are the most obvious examples and these were used extensively in ancient times by both the Greeks and the Romans.

With the rebirth of the arts in the Renaissance period came a renewed interest in classical architecture as well. The rules of the classical orders were applied to the interior decoration of rooms. These were the rules of "3". A column, the basis of classical architecture, is divided into 3 parts: base, shaft and capital. The base and the capital were then further divided into 3 parts and prescribed rules applied to the relationship and the proportion of these divisions as well. The same divisions that apply to a column are also applied to the wall. The wall is divided into the baseboard, the wall and a crown molding. The lower wall can be further divided into the base, dado and chair rail. Finally, the upper wall is divided into the picture molding, frieze and crown molding.

When beginning any decorative project to include several types of molding, it is recommended that you choose the style and size of crown molding first, as it is the most prominently displayed. Then select the rest of the moldings to match. Regarding the proper sizing of the crown molding, advice is abundant and many guidelines have been written. Most often the advice directs you to select the size of the crown molding based on the height of your ceiling. This may be a common approach to this aspect of the design process, though, as larger crown moldings have often been used to impressively decorate rooms of more modest proportions. What IS important is to properly scale the casings and other moldings to the size of the crown molding that you wish to use. When choosing crown molding for your interior, feel free to select the size and style that YOU like. Historically, larger crown moldings were more frequently used than what is recommended today by many interior designers. Change is anticipated as the current architectural renaissance continues and more designers and homeowners endeavor to add warmth to their homes and to personalize their interiors. So have a go at it and don't be intimidated . You are limited only by your imagination.

copyright 2005 goceilingmedallion.com

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MOLD ATTACKS! WHAT DO I DO!?

I'm really wondering about this... do I need to replace my wall? Or...??? What's going on? The wall wasn't soft or anything... like... maybe that is just where moisture builds up?

Please help! Thank you!

Write me anytime here: http://onision.com/contact

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Technorati Tags: allergy, areas, basement, bathroom, bedroom, ceiling, closet, do, fix, guide, help, home, homes, house, how, in, it, kit, kitchen, me, moiste, Mold, molding, remediation, Removal, remove, Removing, soggy, symptoms, test, this, to, Walls, wet, yourself